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Equipment for Rock and Ice - part 1
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As the ski mountaineer reaches terrain which is precipitous or heavily glaciated, he will find he must place less emphasis on skiing and more on mountaineering. He may reach a point where he must forsake his skis for specialized equipment to aid him on high-angle rock and ice; for while he will be able to carry ice ax, crampons, and rope in his rucksack as he skis on gentle slopes, he will probably be more than glad to leave all excess equipment, including skis, in a base camp when finally he must rely on ax and rope. Certain minimum requirements exist for the special aids the ski mountaineer will need, and these are given below. An objective study of the merits and demerits of "Modern Ice-Climbing Equipment" is given by Robert L. M. Underhill in the Canadian Alpine Journal for 1933, and his discussion is recommended to the ski mountaineer with ambitions.
Footgear.—First choice for ski mountaineering is a ski boot with the rubber-cleated (Bramani-type) sole. The
skier thus equipped can travel on any surface but glare ice without removing the shoes he skis with. This is a great advantage, for changing of footgear in low temperatures may lead to freezing of the feet. The sole should fit the foot, and not have a wide welt.
Second choice is a well-nailed ski boot. Edge tricounis with tricouni studs in the middle of the sole and a tricouni heel provide an excellent nail combination and will not harm the binding other than to scratch the foot plate. The binding may have to be readjusted. Rubber in the center of the tricouni heel will minimize balling of snow. Edge nails should be under the edge of the foot, not beyond it.
For dry rock there is nothing better than ankle high leather boots with shallow-tread Vibram soles—the so-called Kletterschuh. Such a sole will hold well on wet rock, but not on wet moss or lichen. The shoe should fit snugly over the desired sock combination, and the sole should not extend far enough beyond the foot to roll from small holds.
Rope.—Two 120-foot lengths of 7/16-inch rope, with two men on each rope, will be best for difficult climbs that require belaying. The two ropes may be tied together for descents by rappel. A 200-foot 5/16-inch rope can be used for rappelling, and will serve the purpose of ski-mountaineering trips with mild objectives. For severe strains the rope may be doubled, but both strands must share the load equally. The
5/16-inch rope is excellent for use in slings—for rappel points, Prusik loops, and other purposes for which rope is needed. It is considered bad form for a mountaineer to misjudge his requirement of sling rope and thus be forced to cut pieces from the end of his climbing rope.
Nylon rope has four times the effective strength of
raanila hemp, and will be far less affected by water and ice. It was developed for the army, and is far superior to any other climbing rope.
Improperly used, a rope can spread disaster instead of preventing it (see chapters 15—17). It is the climber's lifeline when it is needed, and should be cared for accordingly (see p. 186). Resiliency is essential, and the climber should brush up on the elementary physics affecting rope when it is subjected to the various loads that are developed in mountaineering.
Related terms include flagstaff skiing and camelback skiing.
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