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Party Climbing - part 4

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Articles In This Section:

· Rock-Climbing

· Training

· Climbing Control - part 1

· Climbing Control - part 2

· Climbing Control - part 3

· Climbing Aids - part 1

· Climbing Aids - part 2

· Climbing Aids - part 3

· Climbing Aids - part 4

· Corrective Measures - part 1

· Corrective Measures - part 2

· Corrective Measures - part 3

· Party Climbing - part 1

· Party Climbing - part 2

· Party Climbing - part 3

· Party Climbing - part 4

· Party Climbing - part 5

· Party Climbing - part 6

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7) Have the last man recover the carabiners and re move the pitons unless time is short.

Removing pitons.—The piton hammer is not strong enough for prying pitons. The climber should pound them back and forth in the crack with a hammer or rock, and when they are loosened, pull them out by repeating the procedure for testing. It is advisable to be well braced, as they often come out very suddenly, and to see that no one is close enough to be struck by the flying piton.

Tension climbing.—The belayer, in tension climbing, holds the leader to the rock by means of rope and pitons, the carabiner in each piton serving as a pulley. Thus the leader may be above or to one side of his belayer and still be able to climb, driving pitons successively higher for tension, even though natural holds are absent. Tension climbing is necessary when an easier route cannot be found or used. Often it is used in one or more short, difficult pitches in an otherwise easy route. The tension climber should follow this procedure:

1) Drive pitons no closer together than necessary for safety. The piton need not be so secure for holding body weight as for holding a fall.

2) Never hook a finger in a piton, but put in a carabiner and climbing rope, and hold on to them.

3) Use rope slings for foot and hand holds only when tension from the belayer will not hold him, through his highest piton, high enough on the rock to place a higher piton, or when the downward moment of the pull of ten sion on the piton is the safest.

4) Rely on the belayer's tension, keeping both hands free for the work above.

5) Use alternate (two-rope) tension for the most difficult pitches. Two belayers are desirable to slack off and hold the two ropes alternately as the leader, held by a taut rope, snaps a slack rope in successively higher pitons.

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