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Climbing Aids - part 3
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Extreme danger arises when snow balls between the
crampon points so that little or no traction is obtained. Many fatal acidents have resulted. Since crampons are usually needed and used only on high-angle slopes of ice or very hard snow, full precautions against the event of a fall should be taken. To climb with crampons "instead of" an ice ax is like climbing with pitons instead of a rope or motoring with a steering wheel instead of a brake.
Step cutting.—Perhaps there is no finer example of mountaineering than that afforded by the climber who can swiftly and precisely cut and use steps on a steep ice slope. Many are the complaints, in mountaineering literature, of those who have been forced to follow the lead of such a man, who would seem with few strokes to have cut many imperceptible steps and to have moved over them skillfully, hardly seeming to have poised in one long enough to ascertain that it would hold him. The ski mountaineer, however, would do well to start with steps that are more bucketlike.
At least two horizontal strokes with the pick will determine the slightly inward-sloping floor of the step, and should be followed by enough vertical strokes to clear room for at least the inside of the ball of the foot, and often for the entire foot and lower leg, if the slope is very steep. The adz levels the floor of the step. The wrist loop must be worn. If quarters are cramped, the shaft may be choked, but then the point can easily stab the climber. The ax should be held in both hands if possible, to spread the fatigue. One hand is usually all that is available.
Fair handholds may be cut in the ice. They are apt to break out if cut with too pronounced an inward slope, and are hard to hold if not.
The conformity of slope and climber will govern the placing of steps. Ordinarily they will be cut in pairs from each stance; that for the outside foot is lower, and for the inside foot is diagonally back and about 10 inches higher.
To step from pair to pair, the climber balances himself with a handhold or the pick of his ax, and moves the outside foot first, following with the inside foot, which is then used in the most comfortable manner to balance the stance from which he will cut the next pair of steps. Pairs should not be so far apart as to impede balance. A series of zigzagging diagonals provides the most desirable route up the slope—and also requires that the climber be able to cut equally well with either hand. An extra-large step will facilitate "kick turns" at the end of each traverse and when sufficiently enlarged will help establish the belay positions for the second man as he moves up.
Steps may, of course, be cut straight up a slope with more difficulty; this, however, subjects the belayer to the minor hazard of falling ice chips and the major hazard of a falling leader, who would probably sweep him out of his belay position. The leader may use tension when cutting down a slope; his reach will still be too limited for him to cut the steps excessively far apart.
Related terms include keystone skiing and helicopter skiing.
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