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Party Climbing - part 6

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Articles In This Section:

· Rock-Climbing

· Training

· Climbing Control - part 1

· Climbing Control - part 2

· Climbing Control - part 3

· Climbing Aids - part 1

· Climbing Aids - part 2

· Climbing Aids - part 3

· Climbing Aids - part 4

· Corrective Measures - part 1

· Corrective Measures - part 2

· Corrective Measures - part 3

· Party Climbing - part 1

· Party Climbing - part 2

· Party Climbing - part 3

· Party Climbing - part 4

· Party Climbing - part 5

· Party Climbing - part 6

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7) When the leader requires tension, the second man will need assistance on that pitch. Any necessary rope slings should be left for him, or a second rope afforded as hand line while the leader gives tension.

Rope traverses.—The rope, used either for tension or as a rappel, may further aid the climber in traversing or swinging from a blind route across a holdless face to better climbing. The party should be assured of a means of return before retrieving the rope.

Isolated pinnacles may be reached or gaps crossed by means of a Tyrolean traverse—a single-rope suspension bridge. The primary problem is anchoring the far end of the rope, which may be accomplished by:

1) Holding both ends of a doubled rope and throwing the looped middle across the gap to the far anchor point, securing it by judicious flicking around the anchor.

2) Tying to the intended far end some object which will securely jam in a crevice or tree crotch on the far side, thus serving as dead man.

3) Belaying one man across.

The near end is then anchored and cinched, with care, to prevent excessive sag. There should be a sag of more than 1 foot per 100 of unweighted line, and the rope must not be cinched repeatedly after loading or it will be seriously and cumulatively weakened through loss of resiliency. The rope is then crossed in a slothlike manner, each man, for security, hooking a carabiner through his waistloop and to the line.

Fixed ropes and hauling lines.—Passage of a difficult route that must be traveled often, perhaps by heavily loaded persons, may be simplified with fixed ropes and hauling lines. The rope is most helpful if anchored with figure-eight slipknots to carabiners or rope slings at frequent intervals. A better rope is installed if the climber works up from the bottom, belayed from above, and cinches each section as he goes. The line should be close to the rock, so that the hand may be used as a hook, rather than as a clutch. Loads are best hauled in the climbers' packs. If a pitch is too difficult for a heavily loaded man to climb unaided, an endless upper belay loop may be contrived from a second climbing rope and carabiners (2 to diminish friction) that have been anchored above the pitch to serve as a pulley. The loaded climber ties in, then is belayed, or perhaps hauled, from below. All lines should be removed, both to keep the mountain clean and to avoid enticing inexperienced persons who might otherwise try to use them.

Rescue.—Fixed ropes, hauling lines, and the Tyrolean traverse are readily adapted to mountain rescues. Details of the use of mountain equipment for this work, as well as for the use of field expedients, were perfected by the Mountain Training Group of the U.S. Army, and are dealt with fully in the field manual, Mountain Operations. See also: "Neuzeitliche Bergretungstechnik," pages 199-200.

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