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Climbing Aids - part 3
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4) Check the carabiner to see that it will not cause
unnecessary friction as he climbs beyond it, and that the
gate is not likely to open accidentally owing to pressure
against rock, rope, or piton.
5) Beware of pitons that have been used, removed, bent, and straightened. Pitons already in place should seldom be trusted; weathering will loosen them in time, and only the man who has just driven a piton has adequate knowledge of how good it is. Rappels.—The climber with a rope can descend quickly by means of a rappel—sliding down a rope which has been doubled around such rappel points as a tree, projecting rock, or two firm pitons tied together. Procedure for rap-pelling: 1) In selecting a route the climber should be sure the rope reaches the bottom or a place from which further rappels will reach the bottom. 2) The rappel point should be tested carefully for soundness, and inspected to see that the rope will run around it when one end is pulled from below. 3) If a sling rope must be used for a rappel point, it should be tied double; if around a rock, it should sag a little, rather than be taut. Use several loops of nylon or Manila sling, keeping all loops of the same dimensions- Avoid parachute cord. If any lowering under tension is contemplated, use a descending ring or sacrifice a carabiner; running a climbing rope directly over slings will lead to disaster. 4) The first man down should: (a) Choose a smooth route for the rope, free of sharp rocks, (b) Place loose rocks, which the rope might later dislodge, far enough back on ledges to be out of the way. Always use an upper belay for all but the last person, who should be protected by a lower belay if possible, (c) Prevent the doubled rope from twisting by placing the index finger of the braking hand between the two ropes (see below), (d) See that the rope will run freely around the rappel point when one end is pulled from below. 5) Each man down signals "Off rappel" (by pulling alternately on each end of the rope so that the rope runs across the rappel point). 6) When the last man is down, the rope is recovered. The climber should pull it smoothly, to prevent the rising end from whipping around the down-moving rope, and he should stand clear of falling rope or the rocks it may dislodge.
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