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Climbing Aids - part 5
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Use of ice pitons.—Considerable experience is required in driving ice and rock pitons to determine when they are sound. Both may provide excellent security, or may be equally weak. One must drive his own and chop them out, again and again, on practice slopes. Ice pitons have a definite advantage over rock pitons in that they can usually be driven wherever needed. Their weight and expense, however, plus the difficulty of getting them in and out, means that they must be used less lavishly. Many excellent ice-climbers believe that the piton belay alone is justifiable on high-angle ice. The record of casualties in using other types of belay certainly indicates, at least, that something better is desirable. Much further study is needed.
Rotten ice should be cleared away with the point of the hammer before the ice piton is driven. Much better support is given the piton if a recess for it is cut into the solid ice. High air temperatures or sun may leave the piton a loose pin in a socket; consequently, the piton should be placed well back in the recess and driven down into the ice at such an angle that a fall will help pull it down into its socket. The piton is more secure at subfreezing temperatures ; therefore shade, storm, or early morning hours may work to advantage. If the piton is frozen in its socket, it will, like a tent stake, hold a direct outward pull better
than a pull at right angles to the shaft. If the pitons are used for tension, it must be remembered that the climber's weight serves to melt the ice around the piton shaft. A toothed edge should hold, however, while the climber's weight is on it—provided his weight is not on it too long.
Ice screws have exceptional holding power even on direct pulls. They take more time to place, but do not require the use of a hammer and are easy to remove. A carabiner placed into the ring serves as an effective handle; more leverage is needed if ice screws are placed in fairly hard ice. In such ice this type of anchor may be the only one that can be placed.
Related terms include skiing holidays and skiing deals.
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