Ice-Climbing

Articles In This Section:

· Ice-Climbing

· Climbing Aids - part 1

· Climbing Aids - part 2

· Climbing Aids - part 3

· Climbing Aids - part 4

· Climbing Aids - part 5

· Party Climbing

· Rescue - part 1

· Rescue - part 2

Climbing on ice and rock requires the same niceties of balance, of avoiding objective danger, of maintaining a margin of safety. But ice adds a few complications. The margin must be greater—the dangers are different, as are the mechanical aids, whereas methods of correcting errors in judgment are less sure. And where the rock-climber must rely on nature's fortuitous placing of holds and ledges, hoping that he can put the jigsaw pieces together into a complex route, the ice-climber needs only the proper surface; if his technique is good enough, he can cut holds, belays, even bivouacs where he needs them.

Training.—Control that has been learned on easy ridges and rocks can be applied to ice; if easy glaciers and snow slopes can now be added to the training grounds, so much the better. A procedure parallel to that given for early training for rock can then be followed as the skier learns control, the use of equipment, and acquires endurance on ice.

Ice and snow walking.—A climber walking with nailed boots should select his foothold, place his foot on it accurately, and leave his foot as placed, without twisting or turning, until he moves it to a new hold. Pace and stride should be moderate. Weak surface crust that will break if the heel strikes first may hold if the foot is placed flat. If deep tracks are made, each man should follow in the leader's footsteps, spelling him off after a prearranged tour of duty at the arduous job of breaking trail. (See also Pace.)