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Party Climbing - part 2
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Rope of two.—In very difficult climbing, where only one man can move safely at a time, while the other belays, the best man goes up first, down last, and is the leader. The least experienced man does the opposite. When only two men are on a rope they can move about three times as fast as three men on the same rope. Two ropes of two men each are the strongest party that can travel a given route quickly. Vocal signals given clear and loud serve best as communication between leader and belayer. If wind is high, a code using high pitched "screams" has proved successful. Rope signals are inadequate if the route is circuitous and pitons vary the attitude of the rope. Nevertheless, rope signals included below can be used for com-munciation when storm or angles of the mountain muffle oral signals which would normally be given. Procedure for two:
1) A, the leader, ties in, plans route, and awaits signal from B, the belayer. 2) B ties in, assumes belay position, anchors if neces sary, belays, and motions A to climb. 3) While A climbs, B watches him, the rope, the route, and the rock, and begins to put resistance on the rope grad ually when there is 20 feet of slack left, or calls out the number of feet. 4) B anticipates and is prepared for the final direction of pull of any fall. 5) When new belay position is reached, 10 feet or more from end of rope, A signals "Off belay" (two jerks on taut rope), takes in slack rope, assumes belay position, anchors if necessary, signals "Climb" (two jerks). Whatever belay position A chooses is normally used by B when A continues, and should be strong enough to hold a 10-foot fall —the probable minimum if A slips. 6) B meanwhile replies "Off belay" (two jerks), takes off belay, answers "Climbing" (two jerks), follows A's route, climbing no faster than A takes up rope, signaling "Slack" (three jerks) when he wants him to pay out slack, or "Rope" (repeating two jerks) when he takes up rope too slowly. 7) If B is a proficient enough climber, he becomes the leader for the next pitch to be climbed; if not, he assumes A's belay position, and painstakingly avoids snarling the rope. 8) For rope signals the rope must be taut. To signal "Tension," climber places his weight on the rope (or one jerk) and belayer holds; belayer allows rope to run only on signal for slack, whereupon he pays out only as much as is pulled in by the climber at that time.
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