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Climbing Control - part 1
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On steep slopes the climber uses a combination: the balanced movement of a tightrope walker and the unbalanced climbing of a man ascending a tree or ladder. The climber must travel with his weight in poise over his feet or just ahead of them as he moves. His feet, not his hands, carry his weight, except on the steepest cliffs. His hands are for
balance. Feet will not hold well when the climber leans in toward the rock. With his body in balance and his eyes leading the way, the climber moves in a rhythmic slow motion. He uses three points of support (two feet and one hand, for example, but never knee, elbow, and seat) whenever possible, and prefers handholds that are waist- to shoulder-high. He relaxes, because tensed muscles tire quickly; when he rests, it is with his arms low, where circulation is not impaired. He uses small intermediate holds rather than stretching and clinging between widely separated big holds. He avoids the spread-eagle position, in which a man stretches so far he can hardly let go. He climbs sidewise to the rock where he can, rather than hug it too closely. In descents he faces out where the going is easy, sidewise where it is hard, and faces in where it is difficult, looping his rope momentarily over rock points that can serve as intermediate belays; he uses the lowest possible handholds, and never jumps down.
Types of holds.— (1) Pull holds are those that are pulled down or out upon and are the easiest holds to use. They are also the most likely to break out.
2) Push holds are pushed down upon, help the climber
keep his arms desirably low, rarely break out, but are more
difficult to hold to in case of slip. A push hold is often used
to advantage in combination with a pull hold.
3) Friction holds are those dependent solely on the fric
tion of hands or feet against a smooth surface. They are
difficult to use because they give a feeling of insecurity,
which the climber tends to try to correct by leaning closer
to the rock, thereby only increasing his insecurity. They
often serve well as intermediate holds, some of which will
give needed support while the climber moves over them,
but would not hold him were he to stop.
4) Cross-pressure holds do not exist as useful single
holds, but must be used in combinations by exertion of opposing pressure between hands, arms, and legs. There are several types: (a) The pinch hold—the pinching of a protruding part between the fingers, (b) Pressing outward or pulling inward with the arms, (c) The lie-back—a lying back to one side of an offset crack, with the hands pulling and the feet pushing against the offset side, (d) Inverted pull or push holds, sometimes called underholds—permitting opposing pressure between hands and feet, (e) Chimney climbing—exertion of cross pressure between the back and the feet or hands or knees.
Related terms include skiing vacations and skiing packages.
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