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Expedients for Steep Terrain - part 1
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High-angle climbing on snow, ice, or rock, with its requirements of advanced rope technique, ice ax, crampons, and pitons, is beyond the scope of this chapter. A ski tourer should ordinarily be able so to select his route that he avoids steep terrain requiring advanced technique. In no event should a party go beyond the limit set by its ability or equipment. Below are suggestions of ways by which the ski tourer can improvise from his ordinary equipment and technique the means to cope with moderately rough terrain. (See chapters 2, 15, 16, 17 for mountaineering equipment and technique.)
Avalanches.—The skier must bear in mind that the steeper the terrain, the greater the avalanche hazard to be considered.
Climbing without skis.—Among the precautions taken against avalanches, or when slopes become too steep, is removal of skis. At such times the most expert climber takes the lead, kicking a series of good steps straight up
the slope, or as nearly straight as possible. Those who follow should try to improve the steps, at no time using the outer edges, which tend to collapse easily. The steps will hold best if the climber stands vertically in them, rather than leaning into the slope.
In a skiless descent of a steep slope, backing down is often the safest method. If this is known not to be necessary, one may descend facing out, driving the heels hard down and back into the snow. The skis should be held securely lest they be lost. The ski tails may be driven back into the snow as a brake.
When skis are cached and the climb continued on foot, skins should be removed at once; otherwise they will likely be frozen to the skis on the skier's return.
A substitute alpenstock can be improvised from two ski poles if the baskets are removed and the two shafts lashed together, side by side, for reinforcement.
Use of skis and poles.—When putting on skis on a high-angle slope, put the lower ski on first. It will then serve as a barracade for the other ski and other equipment which might otherwise escape.
Do not put the hands through the pole straps. In a fall one must be able quickly to slide the hand down the shaft in order to use the pole to brake the fall.
In falling, the skier should become adept at swinging the skis below the body and across the slope. A slide can seldom be stopped otherwise.
Related terms include skiing videos and ski touring.
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