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Party Climbing - part 3
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9) With two ropes of two men on the same route, the
second leader follows B closely, accepting his upper belay
if the pitch is severe and its ascent should be speeded, and
anchoring B's belay of A if he is otherwise idle.
Rope of three.—(1) A climbs to the first belay position, brings up B, the second best climber, then continues to the second belay position, anchoring while B brings up C and follows A.
2) C anchors B when not climbing. On traverses, if C is the weakest climber, and A will not require B's better belaying, then C should be in the middle.
Pitons for safety.—The leader uses pitons for protection whenever he feels and
before he knows that he is dangerously high above his belayer and is likely to fall. He also uses them for holds if they are needed to speed up and safeguard climbing, but does not use them in preference to natural handholds which are usually far quicker to use. The leader using pitons should:
1) Select, if possible, a route that will probably not
require pitons, as it takes a great deal of time to drive them
in and manage the rope when they are used.
2) Carry enough pitons and carabiners to take himself
over the pitch, allowing for bending and loss; they should
be carried, hooked into carabiners, on a sling placed over
the shoulder and under the opposite arm.
3) Place and test pitons carefully.
4) Choose a route for the rope that will reduce fric
tion—the worst hazard in pitoncraft—where the rope
bends around carabiners, binds over rock between pitons,
or runs around the belayer's body. The greater the friction,
the more the leader must pull on the rope to secure enough
slack for each step, and the more likely is his injury if he
falls. If he foresees that friction will be too great, he may
lead with two ropes, snapping one into the carabiners until
friction is high, tying the first rope into the top piton, and
freeing himself and the second rope, now snapped into the
top carabiner, for further leading, B tending the second
rope.
5) Establish a well-planned belay and anchor that B can
take over quickly and securely if the position is cramped.
It may be better for B to assume the lead.
6) In a difficult position, snap into a piton as soon as it
is driven far enough to be of any possible value, and test
it later.
Related terms include snowcat skiing and arizona skiing.
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