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Rescue - part 2
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Pulley system.—Set the main anchor far enough back from the crevasse lip to allow work space. An ice ax or ice bollard will suffice, but do not leave the anchor unattended. Presumably, the fallen climber is already being held on anchor and precaution has been taken to prevent the rope's biting into the crevasse edge. Attach a long sling with carabiner to the main anchor. Attach a short Prusik sling to the climbing rope near the edge and a longer Prusik sling just below it. Tie the longer sling onto the original anchor and ease the load over to this sling. The climbing rope is then snapped into the main anchor, brought back and snapped into the short sling (all with carabiners, or preferably, wheeled pulleys), then led up to those doing the hauling. As the rope is pulled up, the short sling moves toward the main anchor carabiner. The hauling stops while the alternate anchor sling takes the load. The short sling is loosened and moved back down the climbing rope for the next haul. This process is repeated until the victim reaches, and is brought over, the top of the crevasse. The pulley system operates much the same on rock terrain except for the differences in anchoring and rope-protection problems.
Two persons can raise 180-200 pounds; four can raise two climbers, the injured and the assistant, if necessary. Additional ropes and slings may be required depending on the location of the victim.
One-man rescue.—The brute strength required to pull a man directly from a crevasse is nonexistent, or rare at best. Friction of a rope that has cut deep against the snow is prohibitive. The rescuer must have some means of freeing himself from the rope so that he can work. The
anchor butterfly in his climbing rope provides this. With the victim anchored by the butterfly, the rescuer unties, places whatever smooth object he can find under the rope near the crevasse lip to prevent the rope's digging in any farther, places a short Prusik loop around the belay rope and anchors it to the ice ax to serve as a ratchet, and then hauls with all he has, using his leg muscles and hip belay as much as possible, meanwhile sliding the Prusik knot along the rope to hold all he gains and permit the frequent rests he will need. He may meanwhile take a very dim view of his prospects of success. Prospects would have been much brighter with two ropes between the two men and a conscious victim.
Two-man rescue.—If the victim is unconscious, a good first-aid procedure would require that the nature of his injury be learned before he is hauled anywhere. It may further be desirable to tie a second rope or portion of rope to him. The assistant may rappel to the victim for these purposes, climb back up the rappel by methods suggested above, and then assist in the hauling. If the hauling rope is passed through a carabiner in a waist loop on the victim, and one end of the hauling rope is anchored to an ice ax on the far side of the crevasse, the other end may be pulled and the victim raised with a theoretical mechanical advantage of two. He is also much freer of the overhanging lip of the crevasse. Another rope will be needed to get him finally up and out.
L’envoi.—Perhaps we should end the book on a pleasant, positive note: for more enjoyable ski mountaineering, simply avoid stumbling into predicaments where you need to be rescued—and urge your friends to do the same. We don't mean to suggest that you stay home. Statistics prove that there is where most accidents happen.
To be safe, ski!
Related terms include steamboat springs skiing and skiing.
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