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Climbing Aids - part 1
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Use of the ice ax.—(1) When the climber is skiing, the ax is placed head down in the rucksack, the pick preferably resting against something more substantial than the sugar bag.
2) During an ascent on rock the ax may be suspended by the wrist loop, inserted through the belt behind the hip, placed like a sword through a loop of rawhide tied where the left shoulder strap meets the rucksack, or placed head down in the pack. No method is satisfactory, but any is better than leaving behind an ax that may be needed badly 3) Easy glacier walking. The ax is used primarily as a cane, and is held with the hand over the shaft and the pick out or forward. It may be carried horizontally, with the point forward, so that the user can choose whom it sticks, and the pick down, where he won't fall on it. A third posi tion is under the armpit, the pick curving up behind the shoulder, the point forward and down. In traverses of gentle slopes the ax is held in the uphill hand. 4) Steep slopes. When steps are kicked and the slope is steep enough to require additional assurance, the shaft should be driven vertically and deep into the snow to serve as a secure handhold for each pair of steps. Steps will break out if the climber leans in too far to grasp the ax. 5) Probing. Here the ax is used for safety, testing for each step the consistency of questionable snow, searching for hidden crevasses. Resistance to the ax is being com pared, and only experience will tell the climber what the comparison means. A simple rule, not wholly adequate, is: if the ice ax stops, the snow may hold your weight; if the ax doesn't stop, you had better. If probing is necessary at all, the party should be roped. 6) Glissading. The ice ax serves as a rudder, outrigger, and brake for the climber who wishes to descend snow slopes quickly by sliding on his feet or seated. If the snow surface is right, christiania swings will work passably well without skis. Skiers should take care, however, that they develop a thorough respect for high-mountain snow slopes, which take a heavy toll of the ignorant. Once sliding has started it is not always possible to stop, should the snow slope turn out to have a surprise ending, such as a talus pile, crevasse, or cliff. If the shape and consistency of the slope are not fully known, glissading should be attempted only by a roped party, one man moving at a time. The sitting glissade is swifter than the standing position, but less graceful, wetter, harder to control, and the climber is vulnerable to rocks hidden, but not padded, by snow.
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