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Climbing Aids - part 2
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7) Self-arrests. The point of the ax has been shown to
be useful in controlling a voluntary glissade. It will also
assist in controlling involuntary glissades if the snow is
soft and the slope gradual. But fall face down and check
with the toes. The heels are a better catapult than brake.
To arrest falls on steep snow or ice: the ax is grasped with
one hand around its head at the shaft, pick down and adz
over the same shoulder; the other hand grasps the shaft
about 18 inches lower; the climber falls face down and
smoothly grinds the pick into the snow until he has secured
enough braking action to stop himself, but not so far nor
so abruptly that he loses control on the ax. For soft snow
the adz may be down. Should the fall begin on the back,
the climber rolls over onto his stomach toward the ax
head and begins the arrest. Self-arrest is no contribution to
safety until the user has tried it out several times, with
various snow conditions, on slopes with a safe outrun.
Gloves are recommended for practice arrests on hard snow and ice.
8) Traverses on steep slopes. Snow texture and the self-arrest technique it requires will dictate how the ax should
be held in traverses, so long as the climber bears in mind
that an ax held on the downhill side may be fallen on before
it can be controlled, and an ax head held too high above
him on the uphill side may be out of reach if he suddenly
falls. The most used position on a traverse: point to the
slope, shaft nearly horizontal, inside hand on middle of
shaft, outside hand on head at shaft, pick down. For still
steeper traverses the shaft is driven deep into the slope for
each step, and the ax head is held by both hands while the
next step is kicked.
9) Balance. As on rock, the climber's center of gravity
should be over his feet, even when he is holding the ax in
the traverse position described above. The horizontal posi
tion of the ax is a great aid in permitting one to touch the
slope for better balance without leaning in.
Use of crampons.—Crampons should be tied securely and used confidently. On most snow texture they may merely be placed, but on hard ice they must be stamped into position. That position is then held until the foot is moved to the next step, without being slid or twisted. Ankles and knees do all necessary bending; the body must remain vertical. The crampon is not edged into the slope, but placed flat on the surface. To avoid tripping, the foot must be lifted farther than normal off the snow and swung a little wider of the other leg. Running in crampons is possible, but is frowned upon. Easy slopes are ascended directly, moderate slopes are traversed, steep slopes are backed up, and the steeper they are the lower the crouch and the greater the reliance on the ice-ax point.
Related terms include west virginia skiing and gatlinburg skiing.
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