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Weather and Rock - part 1

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Articles In This Section:

· Mountaineering Routes

· Mountain Structure - part 1

· Mountain Structure - part 2

· Mountain Structure - part 3

· Mountain Structure - part 4

· Glaciers - part 1

· Glaciers - part 2

· Weather and Rock - part 1

· Weather and Rock - part 2

· Weather and Rock - part 3

· Weather and Rock - part 4

· Weather and Rock - part 5

· Weather and Rock - part 6

· Weather and Rock - part 7

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Weather hazards.—As important as a mountain's surface of rock and ice is the mood of the atmosphere enveloping it. Big mountains make their own weather, using various formulas, a common one being that air drops in temperature 3-5° for every 1,000-foot rise in elevation. Clear air over a sunny valley may thus be chilled, its moisture condensed into a cloudcap, precipitated in a violent blizzard on a high crest. Steep slopes can create wind, or accelerate balmy zephyrs into chilling gales. The effect of bad weather on a climbing route obviously merits special consideration by the mountaineer.

1) On long routes weather changes for the worse must be anticipated. Wet or icy rock can make an easy route almost impassable: cold may reduce climbing efficiency, snow may cover holds, a cloudy night may be too dark to travel, an enshrouded glacier too foggy to cross.

2) Smooth rock slabs become treacherous when wet, or iced after a freeze and rain. Holds may be hidden in the rime that has condensed from an icy mist.

Wind and Barometer Indications for the United States

	Barometer
Wind	(inches at sea level)	Weather indicated
SW to NW	30.1 to 30.2, steady	Fair, with slight temperature changes, for 1 to 2 days
SW to NW	30.1 to 30.2, rising rapidly	Fair, followed within 2 days by rain
SWtoNW	30.2 or above, steady	Continued fair, with no decided temperature change
SWtoNW	30.2 or above, falling slowly	Slowly rising temperatures and fair for 2 days
StoSE	30.1 to 30.2, falling slowly	Rain within 24 hours
StoSE	30.1 to 30.2, falling rapidly	Wind increasing in force, with rain within 12 to 24 hours
SE to NE	30.1 to 30.2, falling slowly	Rain in 12 to 18 hours
SE to NE	30.1 to 30.2, falling rapidly	Increasing wind, and rain within 12 hours
EtoNE	30.1 or above, falling slowly	In summer, with light winds, rain may not fall for several days.
		In winter, rain within 24 hours
EtoNE	30.1 or above, falling rapidly	In summer, rain probable within 12 to 24 hours. In winter, rain
		or snow, with increasing winds, will often set in when the
		barometer begins to fall and the wind sets in from the NE
SE to NE	30.0 or below, falling slowly	Rain will continue 1 to 2 days
SE to NE	30.0 or below, falling rapidly	Rain, with high wind, followed, within 36 hours, by clearing,
		and in winter by colder
StoSW	30.0 or below, rising slowly	Clearing within a few hours, and fair for several days
StoE	29.8 or below, falling rapidly	Severe storm imminent, followed, within 24 hours, by clearing,
		and in winter by colder
EtoN	29.8 or below, falling rapidly	Severe northeast gale and heavy precipitation; in winter, heavy
		snow, followed by a cold wave
Going to W	29.8 or below, rising rapidly	Clearing and colder

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